Pet Friendly Restaurants in Bangalore

Most of these restaurants allow pets, even though they don’t explicitly advertise it. If you have a favorite place to eat, do ask them if they are willing to allow pets.
Here are some of the pet friendly restaurants in Bangalore: 

Toit

 We are sure you must have been here and never thought this place was actually pet-friendly. Well, they are, though pets are only allowed here on the ground floor but in the outdoor area. The staff here is extremely helpful and pet friendly as well. 

Address: 298, 100 Feet Road, Near KFC Restaurant, Indira Nagar II Stage, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560038

Urban Solace

   This was actually the first ever pet-friendly restaurant in Bangalore, and in a way, it encouraged other restaurants to open their doors to pets as well. 

Address: 32, Annaswamy Mudaliar Rd, Ulsoor, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560042

 Black Rabbit

 

 Black Rabbit’s outdoor section is always open for pets and they are always willing to provide your pets with water or food, on request. But make sure not to come here with your pets on the weekends because it can get very crowded and your pets might get irritated with all the noise.

 Address: 770, 12th B Main Road, HAL 2nd Stage, Doopanahalli, Indiranagar, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560008

The Hole in the Wall Café

 The whole idea behind the Hole in the Wall Café was to provide things that the other restaurants weren’t offering, and one of those was allowing pets. So, they went ahead with it and they have never looked back. 
Address: 4, 8th Main Road, Koramangala 4th Block, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560047

 Green Theory

 The place has a great outdoor seating where they always allow dogs accompanied by their owners. There are also pet cookies and treats available to keep your pets entertained, while you enjoy your scrumptious food. 

Address: #15,Convent Road,Richmond Town, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560025

 Spoonful of Sugar

 This little bakery does not just allow dogs inside but they also have a special menu just for your furry best friends. The dishes on the dog menu here include pizza dogissimo, chicken jerky and carrot and bacon cake.

Address: 421/G, 1st Main, 3rd Cross, 1st Stage, Indira Nagar, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560038

 Café Buzzinga

 Located just above Cessna Lifeline, Café Buzzinga has a wide variety of food for your pets to enjoy and chomp on. So why not treat your dog to a great day by taking him for a spa in Cessna and then some food at Café Buzzinga.

Address: 1 Bright Farms, Thubhrahalli,Varthur Main Road,Whitefield, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560066

Art of Delight

 This restaurant already has a pet cat which you can often find roaming around. The staff loves animals and you are more than welcome to bring your own furry companion along. There is a big garden outside where they can enjoy. 

Address: Field Marshal Cariappa Rd, Shanthala Nagar, Ashok Nagar, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560001

Rasta Café

 Located on the Bangalore-Mysore highway, Rasta Café is the perfect place to enjoy on a lazy Sunday with your pet. There are lush green lawns which will definitely make your dog feel extra happy. There are no dog specific food available, but let’s be honest, they rather like eating from our plate. 

Address: Bangalore - Mysore Road, Mayaganahalli, Ramanagara, Karnataka 562128

Sunny’s

You know it’s a pet friendly restaurant when the place is itself named after a dog. There is a huge lawn outside for you to enjoy the view and for your dog to enjoy the fresh cut grass.

Address: No.50, Lavelle Road, Opposite Loom, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560001

 

 

Best Way to Break Up a Dogfight and Come Out Unscathed

If you’re a dog lover and see two dogs fighting, your natural response is to want to physically separate them before someone gets hurt. And this is especially true when one or both dogs belong to you.

However, as many, many people who have come before you will attest, it can be very risky business to try to break up a serious dogfight.

Even though they evolved as pack animals and are genetically programmed to get along in social groups, unfortunately, dogs do occasionally fight. When it happens, it can be a harrowing, dangerous situation for both the dueling dogs and their humans.

The first response of many people who encounter a dogfight is to scream at the top of their lungs to try to put a halt to the action. If this doesn’t work - and it usually doesn’t, and can even cause an escalation in the fighting - the next reflexive move is to try to reach between the dogs to rescue the one who’s getting the worst of it.

Attempts to physically separate fighting dogs very often results in serious injury to the human, sometimes inflicted by his or her own dog – which only makes a bad situation worse.

However, it’s not realistic to expect a dog lover to simply stand back and watch a vicious dogfight play out. So what’s a person to do if and when a fight breaks out?

The Spit-and-Drool Match vs. the Serious Dogfight

According to acclaimed dog behaviorist, the late Dr. Sophia Yin, most fights between unfamiliar dogs or first fights between dogs who are housemates are simply “spit and drool matches” even if there’s a lot of noise and fur flying. If either dog goes further, it’s typically a quick bite-and-release.

The major concern in these situations is to get the dogs separated without being bitten, when means you must avoid grabbing the head or neck area of either animal. According to Dr. Yin, the safest method is to grab the dogs by the rear end and quickly pull them away from each other.

Alternatively, and depending on where you’re standing or how fast the dogs are changing position, you can place your foot on the rib cage of one of the dogs and push him away. This is NOT a kick to the dog - it’s simply using your foot against his side as leverage to push him away.

This approach is much safer than bending over either dog while trying to push them apart with your hands. It also leaves your hands free to get control of the other dog if possible.

If you have dog leashes close by, looping the leash under the back two legs of both dogs and pulling them apart from their back ends can also work.

Other Methods of Breaking Up a Dogfight

Other methods of separating fighting dogs involve distractions, including:

Placing a board or other object between them
Banging a noisy object near them; blowing an air horn
Tossing a blanket over one or both dogs
Spraying the dogs with water
Using an aversive spray like citronella
Quickly inviting one of the dogs to go for a walk or a ride in the car
Ringing the doorbell or opening a door to the outside (if you have a fenced in backyard)

Dr. Yin stresses that in all cases it’s important to avoid taking any action that may cause the dogs to redirect aggression to you.

It’s also important to remember that no technique for breaking up a dogfight is foolproof, and all involve a certain degree of risk to both the dogs and the humans who try to intervene. It’s up to you to understand the risks, weigh the odds, and decide if the risks outweigh the potential for injury.

Once the dogs are separated, it’s important to pay attention to whether one or both dogs want to keep battling, whether they calm down right away, or try to get away. If one dog clearly wants to keep fighting, he’s in need of intensive positive behavior modification training to prevent fights in the future.

Low-level tussles can progress to more dangerous fights in dogs with undiagnosed or unchecked aggression. Also keep in mind that most dogfights can be prevented by attentive guardians who notice when one dog is tense around another, and take immediate action to separate the dogs.

Signs of Interdog Aggression

Interdog aggression becomes a problem when a dog behaves aggressively with dogs in the same household, or more commonly, with unfamiliar dogs.

Some people consider a dog’s aggression toward strange dogs to be normal, however, without appropriate intervention and training, some dogs can become disproportionately aggressive due to learning and/or genetic factors.

Interdog aggression is more common in intact male dogs, and dogs of the same gender. The problem typically becomes apparent either when the dog hits puberty (from 6 to 9 months of age), or when he becomes socially mature at 18 to 36 months.

Common signs of inter-dog aggression include:

Growling
Lip biting
Snapping
Lunging toward another dog
Crouching
Tucking the tail
Licking the lips
Backing away

In the case of interdog aggression between dogs in the same household, there are usually preliminary signs that indicate one dog is attempting to exert social control over another. For example, a dog may stare at and block the other dog’s entrance into a room.

The best way to curb a dog’s aggressive behavior is to nip it in the bud while he’s still a puppy.

Recognizing Aggressive Behavior in Your Puppy

During normal play, a puppy may play bow (lower his head while raising his rear end), present his front end or side to you, hold the front part of his body up, wag his tail, zip back and forth, give high-pitched barks and growls, and spontaneously ambush you or another animal in the house.

These behaviors are fun to watch and participate in with your puppy, unless they become too extreme.
Little twists on normal play that can indicate a problem include:

• Prolonged, deep growling
• Fixed gaze
• Stiff posture
• Aggression that is situational or stimulus-dependent rather than spontaneous

These aggressive behaviors may stem from fear, territoriality, conflict, or pain and should be evaluated immediately by you, your veterinarian, and/or a veterinary behaviorist.

How to Discourage Aggressive Puppy Play

In order to prevent a puppy with aggressive tendencies from growing into an aggressive adult dog, your puppy must learn how to play appropriately, and you can help him in the following ways:

• Sidetrack bad behavior. Keep a toy on hand that will grab your pup’s attention as soon as he engages in inappropriate behavior. Offer him appropriate toys to mouth and chew on before he has a chance to make bad choices.

• Give verbal cues followed by an action. If your puppy is biting too hard during play, loudly say “Ouch,” and stop playing immediately.

• Give a time-out. If your pup isn’t responding to your attempts to stop a behavior, put him and a few toys in a separate room or his crate until he settles down.

• Don’t engage in aggressive roughhousing or play. Some puppies have a low arousal threshold and can become very assertive, quickly. Avoid rigorous or intense play with these puppies, which can escalate into more mouthy play on their part, or nipping behaviors that are difficult to shut down.

• Use leashes and head halters. You can use a leash indoors as well as outside to quickly stop a behavior. Don’t yank or jerk the leash – simply use it when necessary to gain control over the situation.

Head halters sometimes provide a more natural sense of control than collars do, but it’s important to match the collar, harness, or halter to the personality and training needs of each puppy.

Information sourced from

Bloat in Dogs

Bloat is a very serious health risk for many dogs, yet many dog owners know very little about it. According to the links below, it is the second leading killer of dogs, after cancer. It is frequently reported that deep-chested dogs, such as German Shepherds, Great Danes, and Dobermans are particularly at risk. This page provides links to information on bloat and summarizes some of the key points we found in the sites we researched. Although we have summarized information we found about possible symptoms, causes, methods of prevention, and breeds at risk, we cannot attest to the accuracy. Please consult with your veterinarian for medical information.
If you believe your dog is experiencing bloat, please get your dog to a veterinarian immediately! Bloat can kill in less than an hour, so time is of the essence. Call your vet to alert them you're on your way with a suspected bloat case. Better to be safe than sorry!
 
The technical name for bloat is "Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus" ("GDV"). Bloating of the stomach is often related to swallowed air (although food and fluid can also be present). It usually happens when there's an abnormal accumulation of air, fluid, and/or foam in the stomach ("gastric dilatation"). Stress can be a significant contributing factor also. Bloat can occur with or without "volvulus" (twisting). As the stomach swells, it may rotate 90° to 360°, twisting between its fixed attachments at the esophagus (food tube) and at the duodenum (the upper intestine). The twisting stomach traps air, food, and water in the stomach. The bloated stomach obstructs veins in the abdomen, leading to low blood pressure, shock, and damage to internal organs. The combined effect can quickly kill a dog.
Be prepared! Know in advance what you would do if your dog bloated.
If your regular vet doesn't have 24-hour emergency service, know which nearby vet you would use. Keep the phone number handy.
Always keep a product with simethicone on hand (e.g., Mylanta Gas (not regular Mylanta), Gas-X, etc.) in case your dog has gas. If you can reduce or slow the gas, you've probably bought yourself a little more time to get to a vet if your dog is bloating.
This information is not intended to replace advice or guidance from veterinarians or other pet care professionals. It is simply being shared as an aid to assist you with your own research on this very serious problem.

Symptoms
Typical symptoms often include some (but not necessarily all) of the following, according to the links below. Unfortunately, from the onset of the first symptoms you have very little time (sometimes minutes, sometimes hours) to get immediate medical attention for your dog. Know your dog and know when it's not acting right.
Attempts to vomit (usually unsuccessful); may occur every 5-30 minutes
This seems to be one of the most common symptoms & has been referred to as the "hallmark symptom"
"Unsuccessful vomiting" means either nothing comes up or possibly just foam and/or mucous comes up
Some have reported that it can sound like a repeated cough

Doesn't act like usual self
Perhaps the earliest warning sign and may be the only sign that almost always occurs
We've had several reports that dogs who bloated asked to go outside in the middle of the night. If this is combined with frequent attempts to vomit, and if your dog doesn't typically ask to go outside in the middle of the night, bloat is a very real possibility.

Significant anxiety and restlessness
One of the earliest warning signs and seems fairly typical
"Hunched up" or "roached up" appearance
This seems to occur fairly frequently
Lack of normal gurgling and digestive sounds in the tummy
Many dog owners report this after putting their ear to their dog's tummy.
If your dog shows any bloat symptoms, you may want to try this immediately.

Bloated abdomen that may feel tight (like a drum)
Despite the term "bloat," many times this symptom never occurs or is not apparent
Pale or off-color gums
Dark red in early stages; white or blue in later stages
Coughing
Unproductive gagging
Heavy salivating or drooling
Foamy mucous around the lips, or vomiting foamy mucous
Unproductive attempts to defecate
Whining
Pacing
Licking the air
Seeking a hiding place
Looking at their side or other evidence of abdominal pain or discomfort
May refuse to lie down or even sit down
May stand spread-legged
May curl up in a ball or go into a praying or crouched position
May attempt to eat small stones and twigs
Drinking excessively
Heavy or rapid panting
Shallow breathing
Cold mouth membranes
Apparent weakness; unable to stand or has a spread-legged stance
Especially in advanced stage
Accelerated heartbeat
Heart rate increases as bloating progresses
Weak pulse
Collapse

Causes
Following may be the primary contributors to bloat.
Stress
Dog shows, mating, whelping, boarding, change in routine, new dog in household, etc.
Although purely anecdotal, we've heard of too many cases where a dog bloated after another dog (particularly a 3rd dog) was brought into the household; perhaps due to stress regarding pack order.
Activities that result in gulping air

Eating habits, especially...
Elevated food bowls
Rapid eating
Eating dry foods that contain citric acid as a preservative (the risk is even worse if the owner moistens the food)
Eating dry foods that contain fat among the first four ingredients
Insufficient pancreatic enzymes, such as Trypsin (a pancreatic enzyme present in meat)
Dogs with untreated Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (EPI) and/or Small Intestinal Bacterial Overgrowth (SIBO) generally produce more gas and thus are at greater risk New

Dilution of gastric juices necessary for complete digestion by drinking too much water before or after eating
Eating gas-producing foods (especially soybean products, brewer's yeast, and alfalfa)
Drinking too much water too quickly (can cause gulping of air)
Exercise before and especially after eating
Heredity
Especially having a first-degree relative who has bloated
Dogs who have untreated Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (EPI) are considered more prone to bloat
Gas is associated with incomplete digestion New

Build & Physical Characteristics
Having a deep and narrow chest compared to other dogs of the same breed
Older dogs
Big dogs
Males
Being underweight
Disposition
Fearful or anxious temperament
Prone to stress
History of aggression toward other dogs or people


Prevention
Some of the advice in the links below for reducing the chances of bloat are:
Avoid highly stressful situations. If you can't avoid them, try to minimize the stress as much as possible. Be extra watchful.
Can be brought on by visits to the vet, dog shows, mating, whelping, boarding, new dog in household, change in routine, etc. Revised
Do not use an elevated food bowl
Do not exercise for at least an hour (longer if possible) before and especially after eating
Particularly avoid vigorous exercise and don't permit your dog to roll over, which could cause the stomach to twist
Do not permit rapid eating
Feed 2 or 3 meals daily, instead of just one
Do not give water one hour before or after a meal
It dilutes the gastric juices necessary for proper digestion, which leads to gas production.
Always keep a product with simethicone (e.g., Mylanta Gas (not regular Mylanta), Phazyme, Gas-X, etc.) on hand to treat gas symptoms.
Some recommend giving your dog simethicone immediately if your dog burps more than once or shows other signs of gas.
Some report relief of gas symptoms with 1/2 tsp of nutmeg or the homeopathic remedy Nux moschata 30
Allow access to fresh water at all times, except before and after meals
Make meals a peaceful, stress-free time
When switching dog food, do so gradually (allow several weeks)
Do not feed dry food exclusively
Feed a high-protein (>30%) diet, particularly of raw meat
If feeding dry food, avoid foods that contain fat as one of the first four ingredients
If feeding dry foods, avoid foods that contain citric acid
If you must use a dry food containing citric acid, do not pre-moisten the food
If feeding dry food, select one that includes rendered meat meal with bone product among the first four ingredients
Reduce carbohydrates as much as possible (e.g., typical in many commercial dog biscuits)
Feed a high-quality diet
Whole, unprocessed foods are especially beneficial
Feed adequate amount of fiber (for commercial dog food, at least 3.00% crude fiber)
Add an enzyme product to food (e.g., Prozyme)

Include herbs specially mixed for pets that reduce gas (e.g., N.R. Special Blend)

Avoid brewer's yeast, alfalfa, and soybean products
Promote an acidic environment in the intestine
Some recommend 1-2 Tbs of Aloe Vera Gel or 1 Tbs of apple cider vinegar given right after each meal
Promote "friendly" bacteria in the intestine, e.g. from "probiotics" such as supplemental acidophilus
Avoids fermentation of carbohydrates, which can cause gas quickly.
This is especially a concern when antibiotics are given since antibiotics tend to reduce levels of "friendly" bacteria. [Note: Probiotics should be given at least 2-4 hours apart from antibiotics so they won't be destroyed.] New
Don't permit excessive, rapid drinking
Especially a consideration on hot days
And perhaps most importantly, know your dog well so you'll know when your dog just isn't acting normally.


Breeds At Greatest Risk
Afghan Hound
Airedale Terrier
Akita
Alaskan Malamute
Basset Hound
Bernese Mountain Dog
Borzoi
Bouvier des Flandres
Boxer
Bullmastiff
Chesapeake Bay Retriever
Collie
Dachshund
Doberman Pinscher
English Springer Spaniel
Fila Brasileiro
Golden Retriever
Gordon Setter
Great Dane
German Shepherd
German Shorthaired Pointer
Great Pyrenees
Irish Setter
Irish Wolfhound
King Shepherd
Labrador Retriever
Miniature Poodle
Newfoundland
Old English Sheepdog
Pekinese
Rottweiler
Samoyed
Shiloh Shepherd
St. Bernard
Standard Poodle
Weimaraner
Wolfhound
Sighthouds
Bloodhound Gang Starr