Pet Friendly Restaurants in Bangalore

Most of these restaurants allow pets, even though they don’t explicitly advertise it. If you have a favorite place to eat, do ask them if they are willing to allow pets.

Here are some of the pet friendly restaurants in Bangalore: 

Toit

 We are sure you must have been here and never thought this place was actually pet-friendly. Well, they are, though pets are only allowed here on the ground floor but in the outdoor area. The staff here is extremely helpful and pet friendly as well. 

Address: 298, 100 Feet Road, Near KFC Restaurant, Indira Nagar II Stage, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560038

Urban Solace

   This was actually the first ever pet-friendly restaurant in Bangalore, and in a way, it encouraged other restaurants to open their doors to pets as well. 

Address: 32, Annaswamy Mudaliar Rd, Ulsoor, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560042

 Black Rabbit

 

 Black Rabbit’s outdoor section is always open for pets and they are always willing to provide your pets with water or food, on request. But make sure not to come here with your pets on the weekends because it can get very crowded and your pets might get irritated with all the noise.

 Address: 770, 12th B Main Road, HAL 2nd Stage, Doopanahalli, Indiranagar, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560008

The Hole in the Wall Café

 The whole idea behind the Hole in the Wall Café was to provide things that the other restaurants weren’t offering, and one of those was allowing pets. So, they went ahead with it and they have never looked back. 

Address: 4, 8th Main Road, Koramangala 4th Block, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560047

 Green Theory

 The place has a great outdoor seating where they always allow dogs accompanied by their owners. There are also pet cookies and treats available to keep your pets entertained, while you enjoy your scrumptious food. 

Address: #15,Convent Road,Richmond Town, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560025

 Spoonful of Sugar

 This little bakery does not just allow dogs inside but they also have a special menu just for your furry best friends. The dishes on the dog menu here include pizza dogissimo, chicken jerky and carrot and bacon cake.

Address: 421/G, 1st Main, 3rd Cross, 1st Stage, Indira Nagar, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560038

 Café Buzzinga

 Located just above Cessna Lifeline, Café Buzzinga has a wide variety of food for your pets to enjoy and chomp on. So why not treat your dog to a great day by taking him for a spa in Cessna and then some food at Café Buzzinga.

Address: 1 Bright Farms, Thubhrahalli,Varthur Main Road,Whitefield, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560066

Art of Delight

 This restaurant already has a pet cat which you can often find roaming around. The staff loves animals and you are more than welcome to bring your own furry companion along. There is a big garden outside where they can enjoy. 

Address: Field Marshal Cariappa Rd, Shanthala Nagar, Ashok Nagar, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560001

Rasta Café

 Located on the Bangalore-Mysore highway, Rasta Café is the perfect place to enjoy on a lazy Sunday with your pet. There are lush green lawns which will definitely make your dog feel extra happy. There are no dog specific food available, but let’s be honest, they rather like eating from our plate. 

Address: Bangalore - Mysore Road, Mayaganahalli, Ramanagara, Karnataka 562128

Sunny’s

You know it’s a pet friendly restaurant when the place is itself named after a dog. There is a huge lawn outside for you to enjoy the view and for your dog to enjoy the fresh cut grass.

Address: No.50, Lavelle Road, Opposite Loom, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560001

 

 

Best Way to Break Up a Dogfight and Come Out Unscathed

If you’re a dog lover and see two dogs fighting, your natural response is to want to physically separate them before someone gets hurt. And this is especially true when one or both dogs belong to you.

However, as many, many people who have come before you will attest, it can be very risky business to try to break up a serious dogfight.

Even though they evolved as pack animals and are genetically programmed to get along in social groups, unfortunately, dogs do occasionally fight. When it happens, it can be a harrowing, dangerous situation for both the dueling dogs and their humans.

The first response of many people who encounter a dogfight is to scream at the top of their lungs to try to put a halt to the action. If this doesn’t work - and it usually doesn’t, and can even cause an escalation in the fighting - the next reflexive move is to try to reach between the dogs to rescue the one who’s getting the worst of it.

Attempts to physically separate fighting dogs very often results in serious injury to the human, sometimes inflicted by his or her own dog – which only makes a bad situation worse.

However, it’s not realistic to expect a dog lover to simply stand back and watch a vicious dogfight play out. So what’s a person to do if and when a fight breaks out?

The Spit-and-Drool Match vs. the Serious Dogfight

According to acclaimed dog behaviorist, the late Dr. Sophia Yin, most fights between unfamiliar dogs or first fights between dogs who are housemates are simply “spit and drool matches” even if there’s a lot of noise and fur flying. If either dog goes further, it’s typically a quick bite-and-release.

The major concern in these situations is to get the dogs separated without being bitten, when means you must avoid grabbing the head or neck area of either animal. According to Dr. Yin, the safest method is to grab the dogs by the rear end and quickly pull them away from each other.

Alternatively, and depending on where you’re standing or how fast the dogs are changing position, you can place your foot on the rib cage of one of the dogs and push him away. This is NOT a kick to the dog - it’s simply using your foot against his side as leverage to push him away.

This approach is much safer than bending over either dog while trying to push them apart with your hands. It also leaves your hands free to get control of the other dog if possible.

If you have dog leashes close by, looping the leash under the back two legs of both dogs and pulling them apart from their back ends can also work.

Other Methods of Breaking Up a Dogfight

Other methods of separating fighting dogs involve distractions, including:

Placing a board or other object between them
Banging a noisy object near them; blowing an air horn
Tossing a blanket over one or both dogs
Spraying the dogs with water
Using an aversive spray like citronella
Quickly inviting one of the dogs to go for a walk or a ride in the car
Ringing the doorbell or opening a door to the outside (if you have a fenced in backyard)

Dr. Yin stresses that in all cases it’s important to avoid taking any action that may cause the dogs to redirect aggression to you.

It’s also important to remember that no technique for breaking up a dogfight is foolproof, and all involve a certain degree of risk to both the dogs and the humans who try to intervene. It’s up to you to understand the risks, weigh the odds, and decide if the risks outweigh the potential for injury.

Once the dogs are separated, it’s important to pay attention to whether one or both dogs want to keep battling, whether they calm down right away, or try to get away. If one dog clearly wants to keep fighting, he’s in need of intensive positive behavior modification training to prevent fights in the future.

Low-level tussles can progress to more dangerous fights in dogs with undiagnosed or unchecked aggression. Also keep in mind that most dogfights can be prevented by attentive guardians who notice when one dog is tense around another, and take immediate action to separate the dogs.

Signs of Interdog Aggression

Interdog aggression becomes a problem when a dog behaves aggressively with dogs in the same household, or more commonly, with unfamiliar dogs.

Some people consider a dog’s aggression toward strange dogs to be normal, however, without appropriate intervention and training, some dogs can become disproportionately aggressive due to learning and/or genetic factors.

Interdog aggression is more common in intact male dogs, and dogs of the same gender. The problem typically becomes apparent either when the dog hits puberty (from 6 to 9 months of age), or when he becomes socially mature at 18 to 36 months.

Common signs of inter-dog aggression include:

Growling
Lip biting
Snapping
Lunging toward another dog
Crouching
Tucking the tail
Licking the lips
Backing away

In the case of interdog aggression between dogs in the same household, there are usually preliminary signs that indicate one dog is attempting to exert social control over another. For example, a dog may stare at and block the other dog’s entrance into a room.

The best way to curb a dog’s aggressive behavior is to nip it in the bud while he’s still a puppy.

Recognizing Aggressive Behavior in Your Puppy

During normal play, a puppy may play bow (lower his head while raising his rear end), present his front end or side to you, hold the front part of his body up, wag his tail, zip back and forth, give high-pitched barks and growls, and spontaneously ambush you or another animal in the house.

These behaviors are fun to watch and participate in with your puppy, unless they become too extreme.
Little twists on normal play that can indicate a problem include:

• Prolonged, deep growling
• Fixed gaze
• Stiff posture
• Aggression that is situational or stimulus-dependent rather than spontaneous

These aggressive behaviors may stem from fear, territoriality, conflict, or pain and should be evaluated immediately by you, your veterinarian, and/or a veterinary behaviorist.

How to Discourage Aggressive Puppy Play

In order to prevent a puppy with aggressive tendencies from growing into an aggressive adult dog, your puppy must learn how to play appropriately, and you can help him in the following ways:

• Sidetrack bad behavior. Keep a toy on hand that will grab your pup’s attention as soon as he engages in inappropriate behavior. Offer him appropriate toys to mouth and chew on before he has a chance to make bad choices.

• Give verbal cues followed by an action. If your puppy is biting too hard during play, loudly say “Ouch,” and stop playing immediately.

• Give a time-out. If your pup isn’t responding to your attempts to stop a behavior, put him and a few toys in a separate room or his crate until he settles down.

• Don’t engage in aggressive roughhousing or play. Some puppies have a low arousal threshold and can become very assertive, quickly. Avoid rigorous or intense play with these puppies, which can escalate into more mouthy play on their part, or nipping behaviors that are difficult to shut down.

• Use leashes and head halters. You can use a leash indoors as well as outside to quickly stop a behavior. Don’t yank or jerk the leash – simply use it when necessary to gain control over the situation.

Head halters sometimes provide a more natural sense of control than collars do, but it’s important to match the collar, harness, or halter to the personality and training needs of each puppy.

Information sourced from

http://healthypets.mercola.com/

Bloat in Dogs

Bloat is a very serious health risk for many dogs, yet many dog owners know very little about it. According to the links below, it is the second leading killer of dogs, after cancer. It is frequently reported that deep-chested dogs, such as German Shepherds, Great Danes, and Dobermans are particularly at risk. This page provides links to information on bloat and summarizes some of the key points we found in the sites we researched. Although we have summarized information we found about possible symptoms, causes, methods of prevention, and breeds at risk, we cannot attest to the accuracy. Please consult with your veterinarian for medical information.
If you believe your dog is experiencing bloat, please get your dog to a veterinarian immediately! Bloat can kill in less than an hour, so time is of the essence. Call your vet to alert them you're on your way with a suspected bloat case. Better to be safe than sorry!
 

The technical name for bloat is "Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus" ("GDV"). Bloating of the stomach is often related to swallowed air (although food and fluid can also be present). It usually happens when there's an abnormal accumulation of air, fluid, and/or foam in the stomach ("gastric dilatation"). Stress can be a significant contributing factor also. Bloat can occur with or without "volvulus" (twisting). As the stomach swells, it may rotate 90° to 360°, twisting between its fixed attachments at the esophagus (food tube) and at the duodenum (the upper intestine). The twisting stomach traps air, food, and water in the stomach. The bloated stomach obstructs veins in the abdomen, leading to low blood pressure, shock, and damage to internal organs. The combined effect can quickly kill a dog.
Be prepared! Know in advance what you would do if your dog bloated.
If your regular vet doesn't have 24-hour emergency service, know which nearby vet you would use. Keep the phone number handy.
Always keep a product with simethicone on hand (e.g., Mylanta Gas (not regular Mylanta), Gas-X, etc.) in case your dog has gas. If you can reduce or slow the gas, you've probably bought yourself a little more time to get to a vet if your dog is bloating.
This information is not intended to replace advice or guidance from veterinarians or other pet care professionals. It is simply being shared as an aid to assist you with your own research on this very serious problem.

Symptoms
Typical symptoms often include some (but not necessarily all) of the following, according to the links below. Unfortunately, from the onset of the first symptoms you have very little time (sometimes minutes, sometimes hours) to get immediate medical attention for your dog. Know your dog and know when it's not acting right.
Attempts to vomit (usually unsuccessful); may occur every 5-30 minutes
This seems to be one of the most common symptoms & has been referred to as the "hallmark symptom"
"Unsuccessful vomiting" means either nothing comes up or possibly just foam and/or mucous comes up
Some have reported that it can sound like a repeated cough

Doesn't act like usual self
Perhaps the earliest warning sign and may be the only sign that almost always occurs
We've had several reports that dogs who bloated asked to go outside in the middle of the night. If this is combined with frequent attempts to vomit, and if your dog doesn't typically ask to go outside in the middle of the night, bloat is a very real possibility.

Significant anxiety and restlessness
One of the earliest warning signs and seems fairly typical
"Hunched up" or "roached up" appearance
This seems to occur fairly frequently
Lack of normal gurgling and digestive sounds in the tummy
Many dog owners report this after putting their ear to their dog's tummy.
If your dog shows any bloat symptoms, you may want to try this immediately.

Bloated abdomen that may feel tight (like a drum)
Despite the term "bloat," many times this symptom never occurs or is not apparent
Pale or off-color gums
Dark red in early stages; white or blue in later stages
Coughing
Unproductive gagging
Heavy salivating or drooling
Foamy mucous around the lips, or vomiting foamy mucous
Unproductive attempts to defecate
Whining
Pacing
Licking the air
Seeking a hiding place
Looking at their side or other evidence of abdominal pain or discomfort
May refuse to lie down or even sit down
May stand spread-legged
May curl up in a ball or go into a praying or crouched position
May attempt to eat small stones and twigs
Drinking excessively
Heavy or rapid panting
Shallow breathing
Cold mouth membranes
Apparent weakness; unable to stand or has a spread-legged stance
Especially in advanced stage
Accelerated heartbeat
Heart rate increases as bloating progresses
Weak pulse
Collapse

Causes
Following may be the primary contributors to bloat.
Stress
Dog shows, mating, whelping, boarding, change in routine, new dog in household, etc.
Although purely anecdotal, we've heard of too many cases where a dog bloated after another dog (particularly a 3rd dog) was brought into the household; perhaps due to stress regarding pack order.
Activities that result in gulping air

Eating habits, especially...
Elevated food bowls
Rapid eating
Eating dry foods that contain citric acid as a preservative (the risk is even worse if the owner moistens the food)
Eating dry foods that contain fat among the first four ingredients
Insufficient pancreatic enzymes, such as Trypsin (a pancreatic enzyme present in meat)
Dogs with untreated Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (EPI) and/or Small Intestinal Bacterial Overgrowth (SIBO) generally produce more gas and thus are at greater risk New

Dilution of gastric juices necessary for complete digestion by drinking too much water before or after eating
Eating gas-producing foods (especially soybean products, brewer's yeast, and alfalfa)
Drinking too much water too quickly (can cause gulping of air)
Exercise before and especially after eating
Heredity
Especially having a first-degree relative who has bloated
Dogs who have untreated Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (EPI) are considered more prone to bloat
Gas is associated with incomplete digestion New

Build & Physical Characteristics
Having a deep and narrow chest compared to other dogs of the same breed
Older dogs
Big dogs
Males
Being underweight
Disposition
Fearful or anxious temperament
Prone to stress
History of aggression toward other dogs or people


Prevention
Some of the advice in the links below for reducing the chances of bloat are:
Avoid highly stressful situations. If you can't avoid them, try to minimize the stress as much as possible. Be extra watchful.
Can be brought on by visits to the vet, dog shows, mating, whelping, boarding, new dog in household, change in routine, etc. Revised
Do not use an elevated food bowl
Do not exercise for at least an hour (longer if possible) before and especially after eating
Particularly avoid vigorous exercise and don't permit your dog to roll over, which could cause the stomach to twist
Do not permit rapid eating
Feed 2 or 3 meals daily, instead of just one
Do not give water one hour before or after a meal
It dilutes the gastric juices necessary for proper digestion, which leads to gas production.
Always keep a product with simethicone (e.g., Mylanta Gas (not regular Mylanta), Phazyme, Gas-X, etc.) on hand to treat gas symptoms.
Some recommend giving your dog simethicone immediately if your dog burps more than once or shows other signs of gas.
Some report relief of gas symptoms with 1/2 tsp of nutmeg or the homeopathic remedy Nux moschata 30
Allow access to fresh water at all times, except before and after meals
Make meals a peaceful, stress-free time
When switching dog food, do so gradually (allow several weeks)
Do not feed dry food exclusively
Feed a high-protein (>30%) diet, particularly of raw meat
If feeding dry food, avoid foods that contain fat as one of the first four ingredients
If feeding dry foods, avoid foods that contain citric acid
If you must use a dry food containing citric acid, do not pre-moisten the food
If feeding dry food, select one that includes rendered meat meal with bone product among the first four ingredients
Reduce carbohydrates as much as possible (e.g., typical in many commercial dog biscuits)
Feed a high-quality diet
Whole, unprocessed foods are especially beneficial
Feed adequate amount of fiber (for commercial dog food, at least 3.00% crude fiber)
Add an enzyme product to food (e.g., Prozyme)

Include herbs specially mixed for pets that reduce gas (e.g., N.R. Special Blend)

Avoid brewer's yeast, alfalfa, and soybean products
Promote an acidic environment in the intestine
Some recommend 1-2 Tbs of Aloe Vera Gel or 1 Tbs of apple cider vinegar given right after each meal
Promote "friendly" bacteria in the intestine, e.g. from "probiotics" such as supplemental acidophilus
Avoids fermentation of carbohydrates, which can cause gas quickly.
This is especially a concern when antibiotics are given since antibiotics tend to reduce levels of "friendly" bacteria. [Note: Probiotics should be given at least 2-4 hours apart from antibiotics so they won't be destroyed.] New
Don't permit excessive, rapid drinking
Especially a consideration on hot days
And perhaps most importantly, know your dog well so you'll know when your dog just isn't acting normally.


Breeds At Greatest Risk
Afghan Hound
Airedale Terrier
Akita
Alaskan Malamute
Basset Hound
Bernese Mountain Dog
Borzoi
Bouvier des Flandres
Boxer
Bullmastiff
Chesapeake Bay Retriever
Collie
Dachshund
Doberman Pinscher
English Springer Spaniel
Fila Brasileiro
Golden Retriever
Gordon Setter
Great Dane
German Shepherd
German Shorthaired Pointer
Great Pyrenees
Irish Setter
Irish Wolfhound
King Shepherd
Labrador Retriever
Miniature Poodle
Newfoundland
Old English Sheepdog
Pekinese
Rottweiler
Samoyed
Shiloh Shepherd
St. Bernard
Standard Poodle
Weimaraner
Wolfhound
Sighthouds
Bloodhound Gang Starr

Information sourced from http://www.globalspan.net/bloat.htm#Symptoms

Hip dysplasia[HD] in dogs

Hip dysplasia is a deformity of the hip joint (coxofemoral joint) that occurs during an animal's growth period. Many large breed dog owners have heard of it, but the fact is that anyone owning a dog should become familiar with this condition.

In essence, the ball of the femur can not fit properly into the hip socket. An affected dog may show absolutely no signs of this condition, whilst others may show severe signs.
What causes hip dysplasia?
Several factors contribute to the development of this problem. Some breeds are more likely to genetically inherit hip dysplasia. German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Rottweilers, St Bernards and Old English Sheepdogs are just a few. For a full list we recommend visiting the Listing of Inherited Disorders (LIDA) website managed by the University of Sydney.

Environmental factors also play a role in the development of dysplasia including diet, weight gain and exercise.
What to look out for
Hip dysplasia develops in young growing dogs, and signs maybe noticed as early as four to six weeks of age. However, there is no link between age and severity of this condition which means a very young puppy can be debilitated very early. In other cases dogs may not show any abnormalities until one or two years of age and in some cases may not become painful and lame until they are geriatric (6-10 years of age depending on breed). Here are some signs you should look out for:-

• Hind leg lameness
• Lack of coordination in the hind quarters (swaying and staggering)
• Reluctance to run and jump
• Difficulty when attempting to lie down or stand up
• Abnormal gait
 

Diagnosing hip dysplasia
Your veterinarian will undertake a physical examination checking the motion of your dog’s hip joint. X-rays maybe taken to confirm the condition, and highlight the amount of associated arthritis.
 

Treatment
Various medical and surgical options are available today to help restore your pet’s mobility and ease discomfort. The method of treatment depends on a number of factors including age and severity of the problem. Surgery is generally a last option and is usually recommended when other forms of treatment are not effective, when athletic performance is desired in young patients or to slow the progression of degenerative joint disease to enhance the probability of good long term limb function.
 

Non surgical options
Non surgical treatment is essentially the same as treatment for arthritis including a weight management program (including nutritional supplements), medications to help support and repair cartilage and medications to relieve pain and reduce inflammation. Refer to our topic on arthritis for more information.
 

Surgical options
Femoral head ostectomy (FHO) The hip joint is a ball and socket joint. FHO is the removal of the ball part of the joint. This gives excellent results in small dogs because a functional "false joint" forms. Some large dogs may not form this "false joint" as well however this is recommended for patients with severe arthritis, if the hip dislocates, or if the expense of the other procedures is prohibitive.

Triple osteotomy is a procedure in which the pelvis is cut in three places around the hip joint. The bone is rotated to create better alignment with the femoral head (the ball). It is reattached so that the joint functions in a more normal fashion without looseness and pain. This should only be performed in a dog with no arthritic changes in the joint and is only an option for younger patients.

Total Hip Replacement (THR) is possible, as is done in humans. The hip joint is replaced with an artificial ball and socket often made of plastic and stainless steel attached to the pelvis and femur in place of the abnormal joint. This procedure can give many years of pain-free use of the hips however is generally only an option for patients who have not responded to other forms of treatment, and is a very specialised procedure.
 

If you are considering breeding your dog. Can anything be done to prevent hip dysplasia in the puppies?
Research has shown that the cause of hip dysplasia is related to a combination of genetic and environmental factors. The disease is known to be an inherited condition and the genetics of hip dysplasia are extremely complicated. In addition, environmental factors such as overfeeding and excessive exercise can predispose a dog (especially growing puppies) to developing hip dysplasia. Because the inheritance of the disease is so complicated, many questions remain regarding eradication of the disease. However there are several practical things you can do to ensure that the incidence of the disease is reduced.

1. The Australian Veterinary Association runs a scheme (AVA / ANKC Canine Hip & Elbow Dysplasia Scheme (CHEDS) under which your dog's x-rays will receive a score from an expert. Since in some HD prone breeds it is virtually impossible to find an animal that is hip dysplasia free, the object is to ensure that you breed from a dog whose score is better (lower) than the breed average score. In this way the chances of reducing the incidence of the disease are greatly increased.

The procedure is as follows:
(a) Your dog must be over one year old and can be radiographed by your own veterinary surgeon.
(b) General anaesthesia is necessary in order that correctly positioned plates are obtained.
(c) The x-rays are then submitted to the Australian Veterinary Association with the appropriate fee and the hips are assessed by a veterinary radiologist and a score awarded and reported to the veterinary surgeon.
(d) The higher the score, the worse the hips or elbows.

2. When purchasing a puppy it is always worthwhile ascertaining whether the parents have been radiographed under the AVA/ANK scheme and if so, what their respective scores were. Even if you did not do this at the time and are contemplating breeding from your dog, it is still worthwhile contacting the breeder to see if you can obtain this information. However it should be borne in mind that because heredity is not the only factor involved, there is still a chance of parents with normal hips throwing a puppy with hip dysplasia. Once you have obtained the necessary information, including the hip score, do discuss any breeding programme with your veterinary surgeon.
 

Diet and exercise in growing dogs
There is a growing body of evidence indicating that dogs that grow very rapidly are more likely to have hip dysplasia. Many authorities recommend feeding a specifically formulated puppy food to puppies of high risk breeds so their growth is slower. They will still reach their full genetic body size, but just not as rapidly.

Avoid excessive exercise in a growing puppy. Any abnormality in the structure of the hip joint is magnified if excessive running and jumping occur. It is not necessary to treat your puppy as if it were disabled, but long sessions of running or repetitively chasing thrown objects, running on the beach or alongside a bike can be detrimental to joints.
 

Caring for a dog with hip dysplasia
There are a few things you can do to assist your pet:-
• If you suspect your pet has hip dysplasia, seek advise immediately to minimise the arthritic changes that will develop as the problem worsens.
• Monitor your dog's body weight and avoid obesity, ask your vet or healthcare team for a nutritional plan
• Avoid strenuous exercise but provide moderate exercise as indicated by your veterinarian

For more information on Hip Dysplasia visit www.veterinarypartner.com

Travel sickness in your dog

So you and pup are happily cruising down the road on a sunny Sunday afternoon on your way to a play in the park. Suddenly, he’s not looking crash hot. Before you know it, those treats you gave him before you left home have reappeared - in a puddle of vomit all over your freshly vacuumed seats.
Dog travel sickness, or motion sickness, can make even a quick trip up the road a stressful experience for you and your dog. Fortunately, there are things you can do to conquer pup’s nausea and make travelling a tail wagging adventure again.

What causes dog travel sickness?

Ear development
Just like car and air sickness affects more children than adults, dog motion sickness is more common in puppies and adolescents than in older dogs. This is because the ear structures used for balance aren’t fully developed in puppies and young dogs.
 

Car equals blahh
Not all dogs grow out of motion sickness. If the first few car rides of your dog’s life made him or her sick, they may associate travel with vomiting, even after their ears have fully matured.
 

Worried sick
Nausea may cause anxiety and this can further aggravate the situation. Motion sickness can create a vicious cycle.
 

How can I tell if my dog has travel sickness?
Furry faces mean dogs don’t turn a tinge of green like humans when they’re experiencing motion sickness, but there are some signs you can look out for, such as:

• sluggishness
• lethargy
• anxiety
• yawning
• excessive drooling
• whining
• vomiting

How can I treat my dog’s travel sickness?

Make the car ride as comfortable as possible for your dog:
Face front not side
Make your dog face forward rather than looking out the side windows. It’s not a good idea to let them ride in the front passenger seat, because of the dangers of airbags. Instead, you could either use a specially designed dog seat belt or let them ride in a crate.
Lower the windows a little
Lowering your car windows a couple of inches while the car is moving helps balance the air pressure inside with the air pressure outside. It also keeps your car cool and well ventilated.
Less food before travel
Don’t give your dog a big meal before you hit the road. Then, right before the trip, give them a small sugary treat (like a jellybean), which is known to reduce sensations of nausea. But remember, chocolate is poisonous to dogs so never use this as a treat.

Tips for stopping travel sickness by association

If your dog equates riding in the car with stress and sickness, you can:
• take a break from car trips for a couple of weeks
• use a different car
• go on short car trips to places your dog enjoys, like the park.

Then slowly build up your dog’s tolerance to car trips again by:

• getting them used to approaching the car
• spend some time in the car with the engine off
• take trips around the block
• Using treats to make the car a fun place (but not too many or those car seats could be under attack again)
• giving them special toys just for the car.

How do I treat and prevent my dog from getting travel sickness?

Your veterinarian can prescribe medication for your dog to prevent motion sickness.
If your dog suffers from travel sickness, or you are all heading away on a holiday, talk to your vet about what’s best for your pawed passenger.

If your dog suffers from motion sickness, take him out for frequent rides around the block and it should start to resolve. Better yet, drive him to the park and toss a few tennis balls for him so that he sees the car as a precursor to fun instead of just a transport to the vet’s or groomer’s.

Some dogs never seem to get over their motion sickness and may need a little assistance to make their car rides less traumatic – for both the dog and your upholstery! For these dogs, there are a few herbs and remedies that might ease the trauma.
Herbs for Upset Tummies

An upset stomach and vomiting may be eased with several herbs. Try ginger, peppermint, catnip, fennel or dill. They can be given separately or in combination.
Herbs for Anxiety

If you suspect your dog’s motion sickness is due to nervousness, try valerian as it will also calm the nervous stomach.

Herbs that can act as mild sedatives include oatstraw, skullcap and passionflower. These can be given alone or in combination with the herbs mentioned above.
Giving Herbs

It’s often best to use a tincture instead of dried herbs; dogs might not be able to digest enough of the dried herb to make it effective. The dosage depends somewhat on the dog and the application, but a general rule of thumb is:

Tincture – 12 to 20 drops per 20 pounds of body weight, twice daily (this is a good starting point)
Dried herbs – 1 tsp per 20 pounds of body weight, twice daily (you can sprinkle it on his food)

Remedies for Upset Tummies

Homeopathy is also a great option for motion sickness.

Cocculus indicus – can be given just before getting in the car and is the most popular remedy for nausea due to motion sickness. Give your dog three pellets or crush them in a spoon and drop them in some water for him to drink (or in a dropper bottle so you can administer them).
Remedies for Anxiety

Rescue Remedy – this flower essence can also be given right before getting in the car to ease your dog’s anxiety. Follow the directions on the bottle.

Argentum nitricum – this is the first remedy to consider when nausea is accompanied by nervousness and anxiety. Give your dog three pellets or crush them in a spoon and drop them in some water for him to drink (or in a dropper bottle so you can administer them).

With a little help, and a little time, your dog may soon enjoy running errands with you, instead of waiting at home.
 

Giving Remedies

To give remedies, make sure you don’t touch the pellets (if you have to, that’s fine but try to pop them from the cap into your dog’s mouth – if that doesn’t work, place three pellets in a glass of water, stir with a metal spoon, then give the water to your dog in a dropper). Give the remedy before you leave and take some extras along for the ride, in case you need a second or third dose. Don’t give remedies with food.

Homeopathic dosing isn’t based on weight. Give the same dose for all size dogs.

Pills – give 3 of the larger pellets or a capful of the smaller little granular pellets

Liquid – mix the same amount of pellets in a glass of water. Give a half dropper full, regardless of your dog’s size.

FIRST AID for your dog

Preparing for the Emergency?

Hopefully your pet will never have cause for emergency medical treatment but it is important for all pet owners to be prepared "just in case".

Here are some ways you can be prepared for potential emergency situations:

1. Know what is normal for your pet and monitor your pet's health on a regular basis to check for and identify any deviations from the norm.

2. Keep your veterinarian's phone number and the number of the emergency clinic in your area in a location that all family members can access easily.

3. Assemble a pet first aid kit suitable for home and travel. Be sure to learn how to use the individual components.

4. Learn how to handle and transport a sick or injured pet.

5. Learn basic facts about conditions that might affect your pet. For example, if you have a pregnant pet expecting a litter at home, learn about normal birth and how to recognize that there is a problem.

6. Store poisons and medications out of the reach of pets.

7. Do not administer any home remedies without first checking with your veterinary health care team. Some common over-the-counter drugs such as aspirin and paracetamol can be toxic to pets, as can many "Natural Remedies".

How to assemble a basic first aid kit:

A first aid kit for a large dog will differ from a cat kit in the sizes of the bandages and other items, but the basic components are the same. Your veterinary healthcare team may have a sample kit to show you, or a kit list they recommend so be sure to check with them first.

Your pharmacy and veterinarian have all of the supplies you will need. Select a storage container that allows you to organize your supplies neatly. A fisherman's tackle box or tool organizer will do. Keep the kit out of reach of children and check it regularly for expired or depleted supplies.

Some suggestions for your first aid kit:

• Muzzle
• Protective gloves
• Digital / rectal thermometer
• Rubbing alcohol
• Lubricating jelly
• Antibacterial soap
• Sterile rinse solution (saline, used as wound flush
• or eyewash)
• Clean syringes (1ml and 5 ml)
• Pen light
• Blanket for pet transport
• Cotton towels
• Adhesive tape
• Gauze squares
• Gauze roll
• Stretchy bandage
• Non-stick sterile wound dressing
• Cotton wool roll
• Splinting item (e.g., a coffee stir stick or tongue depressor for small pets)
• Bandage scissors
• Tweezers
• First Aid ointment or cream

Transporting an injured dog

After identifying an injury or illness, the next step is to safely transport your dog to the nearest veterinarian. Improper technique when transporting a patient can result in further injury or complications.

Handle your dog as little as possible.

Make him comfortable by encouraging him to lay down and stay.

Rough handling may cause further internal bleeding, more damage to the soft tissue surrounding a fracture, and many other complications.

Lay your dog on his side - if he seems to resent this, or seems to have more difficulty breathing in this position, then leave him in whatever position is most comfortable.

Minimize movement - you can tape or tie the dog to a flat surface especially if there is a suspected back injury.

Do not attempt to tape a struggling animal.

Do not put pressure on the stomach - this is very important for the dog who is having difficulty breathing, has been vomiting, or has pain in the abdomen.

If the dog seems paralysed or unable to get up, a spinal injury is suspected, and the dog must be immobilized to prevent further damage to the nerves - get a firm, flat support such as a piece of plywood - grasp the skin over the back of the neck and over the small of the back and gently slide the dog onto the support - try to keep the back and neck straight - tape or tie the pet to the support.

If your dog is unconscious, position the head in normal alignment with the body - it should not flex abnormally downward or extend excessively upward. Improper flexing or extending can cause decreased blood drainage from the brain and cause serious damage.

If your dog has vomited, or appears likely to vomit, then put the head lower than the level of the heart - this will allow any vomits to run out of the mouth and not into the windpipe and the lungs - be aware that a dog with serious head injuries is likely to vomit even if unconscious
Cover dog with a blanket - this not only has a calming effect, but also prevents heat loss

You can also use a blanket to transport your dog if there is no sign of back injury - gently slide the dog to the centre of the blanket, roll the edges to get a better grip, and gently lift the blanket and dog into the transport vehicle (this is usually a two person procedure)

6 areas of a dog's life where dominance is established

There are 6 areas of a dog's life where dominance is established: eating, sleeping, resting, playing, attention/affection, and territory. Establish your dominance in these areas, and you're the leader of the pack.

1) Eating: Feed your dog after you've had your own meal, and make them work for it - a down/stay while you're getting their dinner ready, put the dish down on the floor before you release them from their stay to get up and eat. No free-feeding, meal-feed only - as pack leader, you control the resources, and the access to them. Put the dish down, wait 15 minutes, pick the dish up. If your dog doesn't finish his meal, he doesn't get anything else to eat until the next meal.

2) Sleeping: Unless you have the dog you want, manners and obedience-wise, he doesn't get to sleep on the bed. Period. He should sleep in his crate, or on a dog bed on the floor, in your bedroom. The bed is the prime territory in the house - as pack leader, it belongs to YOU. Give up your rightful territory to a pack member who hasn't completely accepted your leadership position is simply giving away your authority.

3) Resting: Wherever your dog is hanging out is the spot they consider the best resting spot - whether it's a chair, the sofa, or a sunbeam on the floor. But again - the pack leader owns everything, and subordinate pack members should cede that spot to the pack leader when s/he walks into the room. When you walk into the living room to sit down, your dog(s) should automatically get up from their spots to allow you to choose to sit where they were resting, if you like. If he doesn't get up, make him - then check out each seat (including that puddle of sunshine on the floor, you may not think it's a desirable place to sit, but HE does!) before choosing one and sitting down. Never sit down on the sofa next to your dog or worse, pet/cuddle him! Make him get off, sit down, and invite him back up if you like.

4) Play: This one's pretty simple - you always initiate the game, and you end it. If the game involves a toy - a ball, frisbee, tug rope, whatever - you get it out and initiate the game, and when you end it you take possession of the toy and put it away. (Tug is not necessarily a bad game, it can be very useful in teaching mouth control, but it must always start and end with the human in posession of the tug.)

5) Attention/Affection: Another simple one. The dog is not allowed to seek attention/initiate petting/cuddling. If they do, you make them work for you before giving affection. When you want to pet/cuddle your dog, YOU initiate it by calling them over to you - don't go to them. (See my post to Erin for more information on this.)

6) Territory: Teach your dog a sit/wait at the door. (Very simple, shouldn't take more than 2-3 days to teach.) Every time you allow your dog out, put him in a sit/wait at the door, open it, take a step out, and have a good long look around YOUR yard. When you've determined there's nothing out there that you want, release your dog and allow him to go out. (Get rid of the doggie door!) Make him sit/wait before jumping into the car, and sit/wait before jumping out. If you've got a dog that patrols your fenceline, put him in a sit/stay just outside the door, where he can watch you as you walk the entire perimeter of the yard before you release him to go out in it.

If you take control of these 6 areas - consistently and firmly, but calmly - there won't be any question about who's the leader of the pack.

Parvovirus in Dogs

Every year there are many dogs suffering from a range of serious diseases. In some instances, these diseases could have been easily prevented by vaccinations. For example one of the most dangerous infections dogs are exposed to is parvovirus. Even with the very best treatment, some dogs/puppies will not survive when infected.

What is Parvovirus?
Canine parvovirus infection is a relatively new disease that first appeared in 1978. Parvovirus or parvo as we sometimes refer to it as, is a highly infectious virus that attacks the gastrointestinal tract and cardiovascular systems of dogs. The main source of the virus is the faeces of infected dogs. The faeces of an infected dog can have a high concentration of viral particles. Susceptible animals become infected by ingesting the virus. Subsequently, the virus is carried to the intestine where it invades the intestinal wall and causes inflammation.

Parvovirus is highly contagious and resistant to the effects of heat, detergents and alcohol so it can remain in the environment for up to a year after an infected dog has been there. This is why the virus can reoccur especially in unvaccinated dogs or in dogs where vaccinations have lapsed. Due to its stability, the virus is easily transmitted via the hair or feet of infected dogs, contaminated shoes, clothes, and other objects. This means that even if your dog never goes to the park or mixes with other dogs, it can be exposed to virus in the environment. Dogs that become infected with the virus and show clinical signs will usually become ill within 7-10 days of the initial infection.
Signs of infection

The signs of parvovirus can be sudden onset of bloody diarrhoea, lethargy, unwillingness to eat and repeated episodes of vomiting but it is important to note that many dogs may not show every clinical sign. Parvovirus may affect dogs of all ages, but is most common in dogs less than one year of age. Young puppies less than five months of age are often the most severely affected and the most difficult to treat.

 

Diagnosis or parvovirus
Diagnosis of parvovirus can be a challenge because the clinical signs can mimic other diseases that can cause vomiting and diarrhoea. The positive confirmation of parvovirus infection requires the presence of the virus in the faeces or the detection of canine parvovirus antibodies in the blood serum. Occasionally, a dog will have parvovirus but test negative for virus in the faeces. Fortunately, this is not a common occurrence. A tentative diagnosis is often based on the presence of a reduced white blood cell count (leukopaenia). If further confirmation is needed, faeces or blood can be submitted to a veterinary laboratory for the other tests.

As with any virus disease there is no treatment to kill the virus once it infects the dog. However, the virus does not directly cause death; rather, it causes loss of the lining of the intestinal tract. This results in severe dehydration, electrolyte (sodium and potassium) imbalances, and infection in the bloodstream (septicaemia). It is when the bacteria that normally live in the intestinal tract are able to get into the blood stream that it becomes more likely that the animal will die.

Treatment of parvovirus

The first step in treatment is to correct dehydration and electrolyte imbalances. This requires the administration of intravenous fluids containing electrolytes. Antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs are given to prevent or control septicaemia. Antispasmodic drugs are used to inhibit the diarrhoea and vomiting that perpetuate the problems.

Most dogs with parvovirus infection recover if aggressive treatment is used and if therapy is begun before severe septicaemia and dehydration occur. For reasons not fully understood, some breeds have a much higher fatality rate than other breeds.

Prevention and vaccinations

The best method of protecting your dog against parvovirus infection is by vaccinating with premium vaccines. Puppies receive a parvovirus vaccination as part of their vaccine regime. After the initial series of puppy vaccinations, all adult dogs should be boosted once a year depending on your dog's vaccination regime. Bitches should be boosted before mating in order to transfer protective antibodies to the puppies.

Puppies and Excercise

You just got a new puppy!

You know the basics of dog ownership: someplace to sleep, food, training, and exercise and play. But a puppy is not an adult dog, he is still growing physically and still learning mentally. You need to approach each of these areas differently than you would an older dog.

When I see an enthusiastic new dog owner walking a puppy, I mean a little puppy not an almost-year-old-dog, I want to applaud the owner’s commitment but tell hi–scale it back just a notch for a minute. How much exercise and what kind to puppies really need? All dogs need some movement, but for a puppy, just some playtime with you in the living room will suffice. (Not only is this enough exercise, this is crucial bonding activity to create a connection with the dog, make him feel secure, and establish your dominance.)

Good puppy play can be anything unstructured and not too strenuous: chasing, running, playing with dog toys, tugging. For training purposes, you don’t want to encourage biting or gnawing and maybe even start using a command for when playtime is over so he will start to know the difference. Playing with other dogs that are in the house is good for him too, but just watch if you have older dogs. A puppy playing with an adult dog can tend to play hard to keep up, and will be more prone to injuries.

Overdoing it with your puppy can lead to problems later. Things like rough play and jumping is a bad idea for a young pup. A puppy’s bones are soft and spongy. They don’t completely harden until the puppy is 18 months to 2 year depending on your dog’s breed. High jumps, jumping over large objects and jumping out of things like porches or trucks should be discouraged. The stress soft bones, underdeveloped muscles and immature ligaments can create damage–maybe life-long issues. More than a casual walk is not good for a young puppy either. Besides the issue of her still-developing bones, a puppy’s body is not good at controlling its body temperature, making her more prone to heat stroke. Running, jogging, rollerblading, and biking with you dog should be saved for later. As your puppy grows, more intensive or longer workouts are fine.

Here are some guidelines on appropriate physical activity for your puppy:

6 Weeks to 4 Months

• Short walks on soft terrain
• Playing with soft toys in a contained area, such as a fenced yard
• Swimming in warmer water for short periods

4 to 8 Months

• Longer walks on soft terrain
• Playing with soft toys
• Swimming and playing with toys in the water

8 to 12 Months

• Faster and/or longer walks on soft terrain
• Playing with soft toys
• Swimming and playing with toys in the water for longer periods

12 Months and Up

• Walks on terrain that has been checked for hazards such as unseen glass, holes, ditches, wires, stakes, and metal fragments
• Jogging with you (begin with short distances on softer terrain until endurance is built up)
• Playing with appropriate toys
• Swimming and playing with toys in the water

Few things you should be cautious about are:

• Be sure that your dog does not overheat.
• If you are too hot, assume your puppy is too hot, too. Provide water to your puppy or try to run in a cooler area or a cooler time of the day.
• Be consistent with exercising puppy.
• The weekend marathon after a week of couch potato life is very hard on the joints.
• Be cautious with your puppy's feet.
• Running on cement (especially hot cement) can cause sloughing of the foot pads, so try to have breaks on softer surfaces or at least work your puppy up to the harder surfaces to give them a chance to form the necessary calluses.
• Be aware of your puppy's limits.

Until you understand your puppy’s stamina, be sure that you are able to stop when your puppy starts to lag behind. That means taking the short route 5 times instead of the long route once. If you feel that the puppy is not able to go as far as he should, consult a vet to see if there is a health reason for the intolerance.

Diarrhea In Dogs : Causes & Treatment

Diarrhea is common in dogs!
Whether your dog is a young puppy, that has not has completed all their vaccinations, or your dog is old, talk to your vet if your dog has diarrhea.
Both very young and old dogs are susceptible to dehydration. Parvovirus can cause life threatening diarrhea in puppies that not have completed their vaccinations.

Diarrhea can either be acute (comes on suddenly and is over in a short period of time) or chronic (comes on gradually (usually) and persists or is recurrent).
Find out;

Causes of Dog Diarrhea
Treatment of Diarrhea
Symptoms that require veterinary attention
Treating Acute Diarrhea
Using probiotics

Causes of Dog Diarrhea
Diarrhea can have many causes, such as;
• Dietary indiscretion
• Parasites
• Intolerance to one or more foods
• Sudden change in diet
• Sudden stress
• Overeating
• Poisoning
• Bowel diseases
• Chronic infection
• Side effect of some medications

Some of these categories can overlap. The most common are “dietary indiscretion” and parasites.
Dietary Indiscretion
Eating inappropriate stuff comes with the territory with dogs. Dogs are natural scavengers and will eat all kinds of things. Examples of “bad” choices include trash, dead animals, rotting food, plants, wood, plastic, rubber and pretty much anything you can think of.
Anything that is irritating to the digestive tract of a dog can cause vomiting and/or diarrhea.
If the diarrhea persists, it could be poisoning or there could be a chronic infection developing. Take your dog to a vet.

Parasites
Dogs can pick up parasites from various sources depending on the particular intestinal parasite. If a dog has chronic diarrhea, parasites may be the cause. When you visit the vet take a stool sample. Once the type of parasite has been identified then the parasites can be killed and eliminated with the appropriate medication.
Some preventative medications such those for heartworm are also effective against some of the intestinal parasites; see Table of common heartworm preventative medications.

Intolerance to One or More Foods
This is not the same as food allergy. When a dog has a food allergy, the body reacts by triggering a hypersensitivity response that involves a particular type of antibody known as IgE. The most common symptom of a food allergy is itchy skin (see Allergies) not diarrhea.
With food intolerance, the result is usually a rapid transit of the food through the intestine and hence diarrhea. There are a wide range of foods that can cause food intolerance. You can try changing the food or eliminate different foods from the diet. There are a range of specially formulated dog foods available, both commercially and at the vet, that can be tried in the case of suspected food intolerance.
If your dog eats foods that contain milk or milk-byproducts, this is one of the first things to try eliminating. Like humans dogs can be lactose intolerant.

Sudden change in diet
Some dogs are very sensitive to changes in diet. A change from one type of dog food to another can upset their digestive tract.
To stop this happening it is recommended not to make a sudden switch but to have a transition period where slowly the amount of the old food is reduced and the new food increased at feedings.
Sudden stress
Stress can give some dogs diarrhea. A trip to the vet or other stress, such as a new owner, can cause a dog to have diarrhea. Once the dog is no longer in the stressful situation or relaxes, the diarrhea will stop.

Overeating
Though overeating is more likely to cause vomiting, it can occasionally cause diarrhea.
Poisoning
A number of substances, that are poisonous to dogs, can cause diarrhea as part of their symptoms. If you know, or suspect, that your dog has consumed a poison, seek veterinary care immediately. You can check out the Animal Poison Control Center if you are not sure if the substance consumed is a poison – however if your dog is really sick assume they have consumed a poison and get vet help immediately.

Bowel diseases
There are a number of bowel diseases that will cause chronic diarrhea. These include inflammatory diseases and malabsorption syndrome. If bowel disease is diagnosed, your vet may prescribe medications and will often recommend dietary changes.

Chronic infection
Most infections that involve the digestive tract will cause acute (short-lived) diarrhea, but some can also cause chronic diarrhea. Antibiotics may be prescribed by your vet if a persistent infection is suspected.

Side effect of some medications
Some medications may cause diarrhea in some dogs. Read the information provided with medications, so that you are aware of any potential side effects.

Treatment of Diarrhea
As stated above, if your dog is young, old or has any underlying health problems seek veterinary advice.
Very young and very old dogs do not cope well with dehydration. The loss of fluid that accompanies diarrhea can cause problems, or even kill very young and old dogs.
If your puppy has not had all its vaccinations, take your dog to your vet immediately. Parvovirus is a life threatening infection.
Symptoms that require veterinary attention
If the diarrhea in any age of dog
• contains blood
• has a black and a tarry consistency
• episodes of vomiting
• fever
• weak or listless
• gums are pale or have a yellowish look
• rapid pulse
Also, if the diarrhea persists and is not tailing off by 24 hours or gone by 48 hours, get veterinary guidance.

Treating Acute Diarrhea
In a dog that is otherwise healthy and not a young puppy or very old dog, acute diarrhea can often be treated at home.
Since diarrhea is due to irritation of the digestive tract it is important to rest the tract by not giving any food to the dog for about 24 hours. To reduce the risk of dehydration the dog should be encouraged to drink water. Drinking water does not cause irritation.
Some vets will suggest that if the diarrhea has lasted more than a day, that you can try a half and half mixture of water and Pedialyte, in place of water, if the dog will drink it.
Another treatment for diarrhea is to give your dog Pepto-Bismol.
Pepto-Bismol or Kaopectate are usually recommended at 0.5 -1ml per lb (1 fl oz per 15 to 30 lbs) every 6 to 8 hours. Regular strength Pepto-Bismol – ¼ tablet per 20 lbs every 6 to 8 hours. Liquid is preferred over tablets, if possible. The best way to give the liquid is using a syringe (without a needle!) and squirting the Pepto Bismol into the cheek pouch (inside the cheek, outside the teeth towards the back). It can be a bit messy, so do it somewhere that is easy to clean, such as in the kitchen.
Pepto-Bismol will darken the stool, and may cause constipation in some dogs.

Using probiotics

To help restore the balance of bacteria in the gut during and after diarrhea, probiotics may be helpful.